Copyright 1991 by Scott Hays
Magazine: Orange Coast
Topic: Escape to Costa Rica
Byline: Scott Hays

People unfamiliar with Costa Rica think of it as one of those pesky little Central American countries like El Salvador or Nicaragua, where gringos typically aren't welcome.

But Costa Rica is a peaceful country that has opened its arms to foreigners. And ever since its pivotal role in the Central American peace process—which earned its president Oscar Arias, the Nobel Peace Prize in 1987—this "Garden of the Americas," with its rich soils and Pacific disposition, has become the Love Boat for eco-tourists.

Eco-tourists are travelers drawn to nature. Costa Rica was into ecology long before the word became fashionable. It has a world-renowned system of national parks, which together with its private biological reserves comprises an impressive 17 percent of the land area.

Travel agents book excursions to Costa Rica as "Natural History Tours." Costa Rica has made a strong commitment to the preservation of nature, and, consequently, has an astonishing array of natural attributes—from rain forests and waterfalls to volcanic mountain ranges and fertile valleys.

When it comes to preserving nature and developing a tourist product that capitalizes on and is sensitive to environmental concerns, Costa Rica is clearly a leader.

Who wouldn't enjoy a coast of secluded bays and palm-lined beaches, 1,000 acre coral reef, and wildlife including more than 800 species of birds, 350 species of reptiles and amphibians, and 10 percent of the world's butterflies?

Eco-tourists can go hiking, bird-watching, white-water rafting, sport fishing, scuba diving, surfing and sunbathing—without having to worry about harming the ozone layer. The land itself is a vision of lush greenery. Legend has it that, based on what he saw and encountered, Christopher Columbus named the land Costa Rica, which means "rich coast."

Costa Rica's first tourists arrived before World War II. During the Fifties, mostly business people and entrepreneurs visited. During the 1960s and 1970s, Costa Rica was established as a Central American stopover. Today, it's overrun with eco-tourists.

The country has many excellent beaches on both its Caribbean and Pacific coasts. On the Caribbean side, you can visit beaches that have lush vegetation growing right up to the shore. On the Pacific coast, you can choose between luxurious beach resorts or almost-deserted idyllic hideaways.

Eco-tourists who also appreciate adventure should try white-water rafting. Several Costa Rican rivers offer "expeditions" of the Magic Kingdom kind. There are a number of organized tour companies with experienced guides and more than 500 miles of incredible white-water rivers.

Costa Rica Expeditions, a wilderness tour operator, conducts white-water rafting trips down the River Corobici in the northwestern province of Guanacaste. Knowledgeable guides give visitors an orientation to the river and its natural environment.

Trips range from one to 10 days. If you're a nature lover, it's a great opportunity to see tropical rain forests, monkeys, crocodiles, sloths, iguanas and more than 800 species of birds.

Costa Rica is divided into seven provinces. San Jose, a modern city with a variety of architectural styles, is the largest city in the country. It is where you'll find Costa Rica's historical monuments, museums, residential areas, parks and the famous National Theater. If you have the time, you may want to visit Lancaster Gardens in Cartago Province for a tour of the botanical paradise of orchids, anthuriums and ferns.

Alajuela, the country's major producer of coffee, is 15 minutes from San Jose. Cartago has high mountains and picturesque valleys, while Puntarenas has many beaches, some with dark volcanic sand. Limon and Heredia are rich with tropical jungles, while Guanacaste is thick with cattle and treasures of both pre-Columbian and Spanish colonial history.

Sarchi is the handicraft capital of this tiny country, and it offers tourists a large variety of souvenirs fashioned from local precious woods. Oxcarts are the rage, painted mostly in primary colors.

For excitement on the natural disaster scale, be sure to visit Arenal, a volcano that emerges from Alajuela's gentle green hills. From time to time loud explosions are heard as a mushroom of smoke and hot rocks billows from the top.

Although the volcano inspires both intense fright and awe in its visitors, inhabitants of nearby Fortuna de San Carlos and the diary farms at its base seem to live with relative peace of mind. If you ask, they will tell you with surprising tranquility about the time the volcano erupted, killing 78 people.

Arenal is most impressive at night. In the dark, you can see a fireworks display of red-hot rocks spewing hundreds of feet into the sky. Your best bet for overnight accommodations is Arenal Lodge, a large, comfortable house with a library, billiard table, and a lovely view of Arenal in the distance. Near Lake Arenal is Costa Rica's largest hydroelectric project and a great place to go wind surfing.

For rest and relaxation, Tango Mar Beach Resort across the Gulf of Nicoya is located on 125 acres of white sand beaches and tropical vegetation. Hotel bungalows are no taller than a palm tree and are so close that it sounds like the waves are crashing through your front door. You can also enjoy animal and bird sanctuaries, surrounding waterfalls and nearby lagoons.

Hotel occupancy rates in the past have been low due to the volatile history of the so-called Central American "war zone." Fortunately, the entire isthmus is now governed by elected civilian leaders, which means travelers no longer have to worry about dodging stray bullets.

Consequently, only recently has the country begun streamlining its marketing with a clear eye to the kind of eco-consumer who can truly appreciate the natural wonders of Costa Rica.

Citizens of the United States may enter Costa Rica with just a tourist card and some other identification (driver's license or Social Security card, for example). A passport is not necessary. All commercial and charter flights from abroad arrive at the Juan Santamaria International Airport, 12 miles west of San Jose.

For further information, contact the Costa Rica National Tourist Bureau, 3540 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 707, Los Angeles 90010, or call 213-392-8080. Air travel to Costa Rica is available through Continental Airlines.