Copyright 1994 by Scott
Hays
Magazine: Orange
Coast
Topic: Ixtapa Zihuatenejo
Byline: Scott Hays
Picture yourself driving along the foothills
of the Sierra Madre Mountains, through
the dense jungle and coconut palms on
the west coast of Guerrero, to a stretch
of pristine Mexican shoreline surrounded
by vast hills of lush foliage, green and
well-watered.
After a two-hour flight, you could be
tossing back funny tropical drinks and
swaying gently in a braided hammock that
overlooks the secluded Vista Hermosa Beach.
Life in Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Mexico, offers
just the right balance of nature, comfort
and seclusion. Although these two areas
are listed as one, they are distinctly
two separate vacation spots.
A decade ago, few people had heard of
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. In the old days, it
was nothing more than a stretch of white
sand beaches and a primitive fishing village,
known only by a handful of natives. But
since the charms of tourism were rediscovered
by the Mexican government—thanks
to a combination of low oil prices, high
unemployment and a staggering foreign
debt—these two sprawling bay communities
have attracted the attention of international
travelers and served as a popular weekend
resort from Mexico City.
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo lies roughly 150 miles
north of Acapulco. It is a two-town, world-class
resort that offers all the amenities of
"civilized living" in the midst
of secluded and spectacular tropical beauty,
relatively unspoiled by tourism. Most
of the coast remains undeveloped, although
completely accessible. FONATUR, Mexico's
National Trust Fund for Tourism Development,
has taken a step forward to boost tourism
revenues by building connecting highways
and roads. Special care was taken to preserve
the area's natural beauty.
Last year, some 300,000 tourists visited
the area, spending more than $84 million.
These figures attest to its magnificence
as a flourishing new area to see and discover—especially
now that Zihuatanejo's old airstrip has
been replaced by a modern international
airport, with air services from many U.S.
destinations.
This peaceful resort and old fishing
village are naturally attractive and culturally
exciting. Cliffs, wild with tropical plant
life, drop starkly to secluded beaches
with gentle waters. Roughly 24 miles of
palm-lined beaches and coves in Ixtapa
are lined with luxury hotels like the
El Presidente, Krystal and the Camino
Real.
The nearby coastal town of Zihuatanejo,
which is separated from Ixtapa by a headland
called Punta Esteban, adds a slice of
Mexico's historical legacy. For the more
adventuresome, there's parasailing, water
skiing and windsurfing, not to mention
a Club Med at the north end of the bay.
Those who like to explore should take
an excursion of Ixtapa Island. A pleasant
little wildlife sanctuary (home to hundreds
of wild birds and exotic animals) that's
good for an afternoon of snorkeling or
scuba diving. Boats can be chartered from
Playa Quieta. Equipment can be rented.
Isla Grande is another spectacular island
about 11 miles west of the port area.
Like anywhere else in Mexico, there's
bound to be construction that's either
going up or down. But off the main roads,
there's extraordinarily beautiful beaches
waiting to be discovered.
Zihuatanejo, for example, has a number
of beaches. Along the Playa Principal
are most of the beach front restaurants
and small hotels. Playa Maderas is a favorite
among campers. Following the curve of
the bay is La Ropa Beach, which, legend
has it, was so named after a Chinese vessel
was wrecked and bundles of clothes (ropa,
in Spanish) washed ashore. And don't forget
to visit Las Gatas, arguably the most
beautiful beach in Zihuatanejo , with
its coral reef and clear-blue water. It
is the least accessible of all the beaches,
but can be reached by boat.
Visitors who want to get away from the
Southern California hubbub can stay at
any one of the several hotels along the
main, mile-long Playa del Palmar beach
or the Camino Real Ixtapa, a 12-story,
architecturally exciting structure that
cascades down a coastal hillside to a
private beach. Palapas, or palm-thatched
umbrellas, help shade sunbathers. And
don't be alarmed by the bright-colored
insects and frogs in the hallways. Especially
frogs. It's part of the charm.
Most of the hotels have large, fresh-water
pools with swim-up bars, poolside and
beachside restaurants and other luxuries
to make their guests comfortable. Some,
like Camino Real, rent four passenger
jeeps to go exploring. But be sure to
have a full tank of gas and a willingness
to venture beyond the well-beaten tourist
path.
Fine seafood restaurants can be found
almost anywhere. For those who like to
shop, the cobblestone streets of Zihuatanejo
are great for Mexican handicrafts (Zihuatanejo
is about five miles from Ixtapa). In the
village, entrepreneurs sell souvenirs
such as clothes, custom jewelry, ceramics
and glass. Along the central market, there's
fresh fruit, fish and natives cooking
tortillas and beans. More than 40,000
people live in town and it's no longer
that little fishing village of old, but
it has managed to retain its charm while
growing in the shadow of its neighbor.
At night, the shoreline is unusually
peaceful. Lie back. Relax. All the basic
amenities of the big resort are here in
rustic form. The area's greatest assets
are its natural beauty and the weather.
Year-round temperatures range in the low
80s. The jungles can be unbearably hot
and humid, but usually the climate is
pleasantly tropical and the surf warm.
When it's time for an evening of fun,
there's plenty of discos. At Carlos 'N
Charlies, there's a dance platform that
sits out over the beach. For more elegant
surroundings, try Christine's. If spending
the evening out, take a taxi.
Mexicana has flights to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo
from LAX, as do other airlines—thanks
to relaxed commercial air travel restrictions.